{"id":1194,"date":"2023-03-30T13:13:55","date_gmt":"2023-03-30T13:13:55","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.andesport.com\/?p=1194"},"modified":"2024-05-28T21:10:24","modified_gmt":"2024-05-29T00:10:24","slug":"la-voie-normale-6-962-metres-objectif-atteint","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/andesport.net\/fr\/la-voie-normale-6-962-metres-objectif-atteint\/","title":{"rendered":"La voie normale: 6 962 m\u00e8tres, objectif atteint"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Derni\u00e8re livraison du rapport sur la route normale de l’Aconcagua, de Berlin ou du chol\u00e9ra jusqu’au sommet tant attendu.<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Je dis g\u00e9n\u00e9ralement qu’arriver \u00e0 Berlin est la premi\u00e8re moiti\u00e9 du voyage et l’ascension. Le jour du sommet est l’autre moiti\u00e9. C\u2019est une ascension sans difficult\u00e9s techniques majeures mais d\u2019excellentes exigences physiques et mentales. Ici, les effets de l’altitude deviennent nettement remarquables, m\u00eame apr\u00e8s une bonne acclimatation. La journ\u00e9e au sommet commence normalement tr\u00e8s t\u00f4t, le chemin est assez \u00e9vident et monte entre les formations rocheuses jusqu’\u00e0 atteindre une zone de roches de formes capricieuses et tr\u00e8s claires connues sous le nom de \u00ab\u00a0Piedras Blancas\u00a0\u00bb (6 060 m). Ici, le sentier est d\u00e9finitivement mont\u00e9 sur le bord nord, jusqu’\u00e0 atteindre un petit passage par lequel on peut acc\u00e9der au versant nord-est de la montagne. De l\u00e0, l’ascension se poursuit jusqu’aux zigzags qui m\u00e8nent \u00e0 l’un des points cl\u00e9s de la journ\u00e9e au sommet: le Refugio Independencia (6 380 m). Ce sera un bon moment de la mont\u00e9e pour corroborer l\u2019\u00e9tat g\u00e9n\u00e9ral et les r\u00e9serves d\u2019\u00e9nergie n\u00e9cessaires pour faire face aux \u00e9tapes finales. La d\u00e9cision de continuer \u00e0 partir de ce point doit \u00eatre bien r\u00e9fl\u00e9chie. Il monte maintenant vers un point tranchant \u00e0 l’ouest du refuge, appel\u00e9 \u00ab\u00a0Portezuelo del Viento\u00a0\u00bb. \u00c0 partir de ce point, commence la travers\u00e9e, un itin\u00e9raire \u00e9tendu avec peu de d\u00e9nivel\u00e9 qui traverse le grand halage dans la direction est-ouest. Ici, les conditions sont g\u00e9n\u00e9ralement tr\u00e8s variables. Tout d\u2019abord, c\u2019est une zone normalement expos\u00e9e au vent du matin, un vent de vall\u00e9e qui monte en rafales \u00e0 cause du grand port qui provoque une forte chute de la sensation thermique.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pour ce qui est de la terre, des plaques de neige gel\u00e9e, voire de glace, sont souvent pr\u00e9sentes, ce qui rend indispensable l\u2019utilisation de crampons et de pioche. La pente ne d\u00e9passe pas 30 \u00b0, mais un glissement dans une dalle \u00e0 cette hauteur peut causer de graves dommages.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

La travers\u00e9e conduit \u00e0 une diagonale beaucoup plus abrupte qui nous am\u00e8ne \u00e0 la base de \u00ab\u00a0La Canaleta\u00a0\u00bb o\u00f9 nous trouvons un mur rocheux de conglom\u00e9rats et une base concave appel\u00e9e \u00ab\u00a0La Cueva\u00a0\u00bb (6.650 m).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

C’est un autre point cl\u00e9 du repos obligatoire. Un bon moment pour se r\u00e9hydrater, manger, collecter de l’\u00e9nergie et \u00e9valuer les possibilit\u00e9s de faire face \u00e0 la mont\u00e9e de la Canaleta. En outre, il est g\u00e9n\u00e9ralement judicieux d\u2019all\u00e9ger la charge de notre sac \u00e0 dos, en laissant ce que nous ne consid\u00e9rons plus indispensable dans les d\u00e9p\u00f4ts entre les rochers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

La Canaleta est parcourue par des sentiers assez escarp\u00e9s qui la traversent \u00e0 l’extr\u00eame ouest, tr\u00e8s pr\u00e8s du mur rocheux, qui commence \u00e0 se r\u00e9tr\u00e9cir jusqu’\u00e0 dispara\u00eetre dans le halage. Ici, il progresse l\u00e9g\u00e8rement vers la droite dans les terrains escarp\u00e9s et les rochers meubles. De ce point, toujours en zigzags courts, on progresse directement \u00e0 la recherche du bord.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Quelques m\u00e8tres avant le bord, vous acc\u00e9dez au sentier qui traverse l\u00e9g\u00e8rement le \u00ab\u00a0Filo del Guanaco\u00a0\u00bb par un chemin l\u00e9g\u00e8rement ascendant, toujours quelques m\u00e8tres en dessous, \u00e9vitant ainsi une exposition au mur sud. \u00c0 ce stade, la hauteur est de 6 800 m et le sommet est visible \u00e0 l’est, juste au bout du passage \u00e0 niveau. Ici, le fardeau d\u00fb \u00e0 l’hypoxie atteint son point critique. Les marches deviennent lentes et il est n\u00e9cessaire de r\u00e9p\u00e9ter les pauses pour d\u00e9tendre les jambes et r\u00e9cup\u00e9rer le pouls.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Personnellement, je recommande dans ces derniers tron\u00e7ons de forcer un peu de ventilation pour avoir plus d’oxyg\u00e8ne au niveau des alv\u00e9oles pulmonaires. Ayez \u00e9galement des bonbons sucr\u00e9s dans vos poches et allez les ing\u00e9rer de mani\u00e8re r\u00e9p\u00e9t\u00e9e pour maintenir le niveau de sucre dans le sang. Enfin, un thermos avec boisson chaude pr\u00e9vu pour ces derniers compteurs fatigants aidera \u00e0 contr\u00f4ler la d\u00e9shydratation qui sera in\u00e9vitable en raison de la forte hyperventilation, de l’air sec et de l’impossibilit\u00e9 d’avoir autant de liquide pour la remont\u00e9e.
\"\"
Cette travers\u00e9e, bien qu\u2019il semble que nous serons d\u00e9pos\u00e9s au sommet dans un court laps de temps, n\u00e9cessite g\u00e9n\u00e9ralement 45 minutes ou 1 heure de marche difficile. C\u2019est l\u00e0 que tout notre travail physique, notre acclimatation et notre travail mental sont mis \u00e0 l\u2019\u00e9preuve pour faire face \u00e0 cet effort.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Source:<\/strong> Aconcagua: le sommet de l’Am\u00e9rique. Mauricio Fern\u00e1ndez. \u00c9ditions Summit<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Enfin, dans les derniers m\u00e8tres du sentier \u00ab\u00a0Filo del Guanaco\u00a0\u00bb, nous gravissons un couloir tr\u00e8s rocheux qui contourne le sommet vers le nord pour enfin monter sur les derni\u00e8res marches rocheuses qui se terminent au sommet.
Premi\u00e8re partie<\/a>
Deuxi\u00e8me partie<\/a>
Troisi\u00e8me partie<\/a>
Quatri\u00e8me partie<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Derni\u00e8re livraison du rapport sur la route normale de l’Aconcagua, de Berlin ou du chol\u00e9ra jusqu’au sommet tant attendu. Je dis g\u00e9n\u00e9ralement qu’arriver \u00e0 Berlin est la premi\u00e8re moiti\u00e9 du voyage et l’ascension. Le jour du sommet est l’autre moiti\u00e9. C\u2019est une ascension sans difficult\u00e9s techniques majeures mais d\u2019excellentes exigences physiques et mentales. Ici, les […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":553,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"","ast-site-content-layout":"default","site-content-style":"default","site-sidebar-style":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-banner-title-visibility":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","ast-disable-related-posts":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","astra-migrate-meta-layouts":"default","ast-page-background-enabled":"default","ast-page-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"ast-content-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"footnotes":""},"categories":[14],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1194","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-sin-categorizar"],"yoast_head":"\nLa voie normale: 6 962 m\u00e8tres, objectif atteint<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Derni\u00e8re livraison du rapport sur la route normale de l'Aconcagua, de Berlin ou du chol\u00e9ra jusqu'au sommet tant attendu. 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